Muscle Car Mania
Anyone who has been flipping though the channels has seen the Barrett Jackson auctions on The Speed Channel and the insane prices muscle cars bring. Do you have a hunkering for a tire burning, fuel guzzling muscle car? Here is how to go about it.
I classify muscle cars into three categories… Restored, Resto-Mod and Survivors. All three have their advantages and disadvantages, but all three are true muscle cars. Your budget and skills will dictate what category you build your muscle car.
The restored muscle car is one that has been totally ripped down to the frame and rebuilt with NOS (new old stock) parts and refurbished original parts. This method of restoration is the most expensive, but often results in a better than new vehicle. Some cars can be over restored. When muscle cars left the factory back in the 1960’s they were never perfect. The build quality was nothing like it is today on modern cars. During a full restoration often times the body panel fit, paint work and details are finished to a level never dreamed of from the factory. If you are interested in building a fully restored muscle car you can brush up on your restoration skills, or pay someone to do it. Be warned, if you pay a professional, you will almost never get your money back when it’s time to sell. If you do the work yourself and view your time spent as a hobby and recreation, you will make money if and when you sell it. If you are not interested in doing the work yourself, consider buying a car already done, as mentioned before, you can buy it for less than the expense to have one restored. Search Ebay, local magazines and online sites like www.classicjunkyard.com for some hot deals.
It used to be that modified muscle cars would never bring big money at auctions and were thought to be impure. In recent years at auctions this way of thinking has been turned upside down. Resto-Mod cars are cars that have been restored and modified to make them better than the factory product. The owner may have added an aftermarket exhaust, carburetor, or even put a more modern engine in the car. Creature comforts like a cool stereo or air conditioning may be added, even if it was never an option from the factory. A resto-mod muscle car can be the most fun to build and one of the cheaper ways to get into the hobby. You get the personal satisfaction of building the car the way you want without the expense of a full restoration. Matching numbers are not critical in a resto-mod car, so you can avoid hunting down those NOS parts at the swap meets.
The last category of muscle cars, is the survivor car. A survivor is just what the name implies; it’s an original car, which has survived the years in its mostly original states. Hoses, belts and tires may have been changed, but the rest of the car is largely original as it came from the factory. The paint may be a little faded or chipped, but it’s still all one color and looks good from 10 feet away. Many survivor cars serve as a library of information for people restoring their cars. If you own a true survivor, plan on having your car photographed and inspected by restorers, so they can get their restoration as close to factory original as possible. Survivor cars are rare, but they can still be found and many times at a reasonable price since the owner sometimes believes that the car is not worth a mint since it’s not fully restored. If you are short on skills and don’t have the money, a survivor car can be a great way to get into a muscle car. You can maintain the vehicle, drive it, and enjoy it for a minimal investment. If you later get the skills and or money, you can then take it to the next level and turn it into a resto-mod or full restoration.
No matter what kind of muscle car you buy or build, enjoy it! It’s a great investment if done right, and will provide tons of smiles from you and everyone who sees you cruising down the street.
Kevin
Posted: 11th July 2006 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Site News
How to Determine New Car Price
How to determine a New Car Price.
When I am shopping for a new car, I use the following formula to determine the price I will pay
for a new car. It’s a formula that I have used many times in the past few years and almost always results in the best deal.
Invoice Price
- Rebates
————
True Dealer Cost
True Dealer Cost
x 1.04
————
Your Rock Bottom Price
Step
1: Bookmark
this page, it contains valuable links you will need
in your car buying journey.
Step 2:
Research invoice price at Invoice Dealers Make sure you add the invoice costs of all options you are
looking for to get true invoice
Step 3:
Search for dealer to customer rebates, and manufacturer to dealer rebates. Add these two numbers together to get your total rebate. Most cars will not have a manufacturer to dealer rebate, so don’t worry if you don’t find one.
Step
4: Subtract the total rebate found in step 3 from the invoice price calculated in step 2 and you have true dealer cost.
Step
5: Multiply the true dealer cost by 1.04 to get your bottom line price. This is 4% profit for the dealer, and is more than fair.
Step 6: Get a new car price quote and start negotiating with the dealer on your terms. I have had dealers offer me less than my bottom line, so when you fill out the Form, don’t let them know what you are willing to pay ! This quote is not binding, and you will not get spammed. I have included a link below to start your price quote. If you are comparing vehicles, make sure you submit multiple quotes !
E-mail me if you have any questions.
Posted: 9th July 2006 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Buying A Car
Car Overheating
Question:
Kevin,
My 1987 ford mercury monarch sustained a broken heater hose, was towed into the garage and repaired. The mechanic ran the engine at idle for over an hour and declared it repaired and fit to drive. I drove the car about three miles, the engine light came on, the car overheated. I was towed back to the garage coolant was added again, no leaks were seen, the coolant was circulating, the engine was run for an hour, hose temp were 170 degrees and the car was test driven. Again I left the garage and again after 3 miles the car over heated and had to be re-towed to the garage. Can you give any help or explanation? The mechanic can’t explain.
Thanks for you help.
Jim
Answer:
Jim,
It could be a few things… The waterpump could be bad, even if the water is circulating at idle. The impeller could be loose on the shaft, and at higher engine speeds will not spin, thus causing your overheating since no water is being circulated. It could also be the belt, clogged radiator or extremely lean running condition, but my bet is on the waterpump.
Good Luck,
Kevin
Posted: 5th July 2006 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Cooling
Wheels studs and what they are.
Question:
What is a stud? How would one get broken and would it make the steering mess up,pump rack and pinon-95 Nissan Altima
Thank you
Karen
Answer:
There could be a couple of studs on the front of your car. A stud is a threaded piece of metal which is attached permanently to another part of the car. So when tightening the nut, you do not have to hold the back side of the stud. In other words, it’s a bolt which can not turn, thus allowing you to tighten the nut without holding the bolt.
There are wheel studs which go through the axle flange and through your tire. This stud is what the lug nut threads on to and holds your tires in place. Most cars have 4 or 5 studs per wheel. Not likely that this caused a problem with the power steering.
There are also studs which the power steering pump and rack and pinion mount to, both could cause problems if they snapped. These studs could break due to fatigue, or hitting a curb with the tire.
Take Care,
Kevin
Posted: 1st July 2006 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Drivetrain, Suspension, Wheels and Tires
The Summer Road Trip
Summer Road Trip
Even with the high gas prices, people are planning their summer road trips. It’s essential that you are prepared for your trip and have the right supplies on hand to handle a roadside emergency. Here is a simple checklist to prepare your
family truckster for the long haul.
- Is your car close to needing an oil change? Get the oil changed
just to be safe. Fresh oil will help your engine run cooler and at
peak efficiency. I personally use synthetic oil in my vehicles for it’s long life and superior lubrication. While you are getting your oil changed, make sure that the mechanic greases all of the suspension points and inspects everything under the car for wear.
- Check the air conditioning system, nothing is worse than a family trip with no air conditioning. If your system is not blowing cold like it used to, consider getting it recharged to keep you cool on those hot summer roads.
- Check your tires for tread depth, unusual wear and damage. Nothing
is worse than having a blowout on a Sunday with no place to get a new
tire. Also make sure your tires are properly inflated, this will save
you gas and keep your tires from wearing prematurely. Also make sure
your spare tire is inflated and in good condition. Remember that if you need to use the small “doughnut” spare included in some cars, keep the speed below 50mph and only use the tire to get to the nearest garage to get your original tire fixed or replaced.
- Top off all the fluids under the hood. Windshield washer fluid, power
steering fluid and coolant are the most important. Also make sure you have
extra fluids in the trunk just in case. I usually carry a gallon jug of fresh water from the store. You can use it to fill a radiator or keep you alive if you are stranded and need water.
- Do you have an emergency kit in your car? You should have the basic band-aids, gauze and ointments included in most kits today. You should also have a blanket in the trunk. Flares and flags are also essential for roadside safety.
- A tool kit to fix minor problems is a good idea to have in the trunk also. An adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, and a vice-grips pliers go a long way when stuck on the side of the road. I also carry electrical tape and extra fuses incase any minor electrical problems pop up during the trip.
- Don’t forget a good set of jumper cables for when you leave the lights on, or your battery goes dead. A good set of jumper cables has a heavy gauge wire and sturdy clamps at each end. There are some new cables on the market, which have LED lights to show you if you have the cables hooked up properly. If you can find a set, it’s worth the price to know that you are jumping your car the right way. I get more questions about how to jump-start a car properly.
- How old is your battery? A dead battery is a common problem while on
vacation and a major inconvenience. If it’s older than 3 years, consider
replacing it. While you are under the hood, make sure the terminals are
tight and have a good coat of grease on them. The grease will keep the terminals
from corroding. A mechanic can test your charging system and battery in about 5 minutes. This extra test could save you a lot of headaches on your trip, if something was to go wrong with your charging system.
- Do you belong to a motoring club like AAA? Make sure your membership is current and you have the membership card with you on your trip.
Now that you have everything prepared for your summer road trip, get ready for a million “are we there yet’s and “Daddy I have to Pee” Aahh… the joys of the family vacation !
Posted: 1st July 2006 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Car Care, Wheels and Tires
